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This article was co-authored by Marty Stevens-Heebner, SMM-C, CPO® and by wikiHow staff writer, Christopher M. Osborne, PhD. Marty Stevens-Heebner is a Certified Professional Organizer (CPO) and Founder of Clear Home Solutions, a home organizing and senior moving management company based in Southern California. Marty is the President of the National Association of Senior and Specialty Move Managers (NASMM), with certifications in Senior and Specialty Move Management, Professional Organizing, and Aging in Place. Clear Home Solutions was the first nationally accredited firm in Los Angeles and Ventura Counties. Marty is the first Certified Senior Move Manager (SMM-C) in the United States and has been acknowledged as a Hoarding Specialist and ADHD Specialist through the Institute for Challenging Disorganization. Marty also hosts How to Move Your Mom (and still be on speaking terms afterward), a podcast dedicated to later life and all its idiosyncrasies. She received her B.A. in History from Cornell University and an MFA from the University of California, Los Angeles.
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While the prospect of moving into a new home is usually exciting, the thought of packing everything you own into boxes probably isn’t. Fortunately, with a little organization and lots of boxes, you can get the job done efficiently. Just keep in mind that extra care and protection will be needed for valuable and fragile objects.
Steps
Getting Boxes and Sorting Items
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Get various sizes of sturdy moving boxes based on your home’s floor area. For the best results, pick new or lightly-used moving boxes—not just run-of-the-mill cardboard boxes—with a sturdy double-wall construction and no rips, tears, or stains. You can buy new moving boxes from a home improvement retailer, moving company, or office supply store. To figure out how many moving boxes of each size—small, medium, large, and extra large—to get, use your current home’s floor area (in square feet or square meters).[1]
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Research source- If the area of your home is 700–900 sq ft (65–84 m2), estimate 15 small boxes, 13 medium boxes, 6 large boxes, and 3 extra large boxes.
- If the area is 900–1,200 sq ft (84–111 m2), estimate 21 small, 19 medium, 10 large, and 6 extra large boxes.
- If the area is 1,200–1,600 sq ft (110–150 m2), estimate 30 small, 29 medium, 15 large, and 9 extra large boxes.
- If the area is 1,600–1,800 sq ft (150–170 m2), estimate 35 small, 33 medium, 19 large, and 11 extra large boxes.
- Do not risk having your stuff fall out because you used heavily-worn, flimsy, or damaged boxes. A moving company may refuse to load any boxes that are ripped, torn, or stained.
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Set aside important stuff to pack in a “need right away” box. Collect items from around your home that you’ll want to access immediately upon arrival at your new place. Your pile might include a few days' worth of towels, toiletries, clothes, and cleaning supplies, for example.[2]
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Research source- Consider this box a type of "overnight bag." Make it one of the last boxes you put on the truck so that you can easily find it and use it when you arrive.
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Divide your stuff into fragile and non-fragile groupings. Some people prefer to work room-by-room, while others like to make a single sorting and packing center. Either way, start by separating breakable (fragile) things from non-fragile items so the breakable stuff can be packed into specific fragile item boxes.[3]
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Research source- If you haven’t already gone through your stuff and gotten rid of things you don’t want to pack up, do so now. Get rid of as much clutter as possible before you start packing.
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Group similar fragile items together and do the same with non-fragile stuff. Working either room-by-room or in a central location, group all your books together, all your stereo equipment together, all your office supplies together, and so on. Other than fragile/non-fragile, there’s no clear definition of “similar” here: group things together based on a combination of size, shape, sturdiness, function, and existing or intended location.[4]
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Set aside bigger boxes for lighter objects and smaller boxes for heavier stuff. Resist the urge to fill a large or extra large moving box with books or other heavy things. The boxes will fall apart, be too heavy to move, or both. Instead, set aside your small and medium boxes for heavier items and your large and extra large boxes for lighter stuff.[5]
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Research source- New, undamaged moving boxes are rated to hold at least 50 lb (23 kg), but it’s best to aim for around 30 lb (14 kg) or less per box.[6]
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- New, undamaged moving boxes are rated to hold at least 50 lb (23 kg), but it’s best to aim for around 30 lb (14 kg) or less per box.[6]
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Unfold and tape the bottoms of flattened boxes so you can fill them. With a folded box flat in front of you, push in on the creased sides to unfold it into a square. Put the box upside-down so the bottom flaps are up. Fold the 2 smaller flaps over, then fold the 2 larger flaps over the smaller ones. Stretch a long piece of packing tape along the crease where the flaps meet, running the strip of tape at least 3 in (7.6 cm) up the sides of the box as well. Add 2 more strips of tape over the first strip and the crease, but offset them slightly so that one is to the right and one is to the left.
- Press down on the tape to make sure it’s firmly in place.
- 3 strips of good quality packing tape should be plenty. If adding even more tape gives you extra peace of mind, do one or both of the following: run 2 strips along the side seams of the box’s bottom, creating an H-shape; run 2 strips of tape from corner to corner in an X pattern.
Packing Non-Breakable Items
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Keep the weight of each box at or below 30 lb (14 kg) for the best results. Standard cardboard moving boxes of any size can hold 50 lb (23 kg) or more. However, the heavier a box is, the harder it is to handle and the more likely it is to be dropped. Before you start filling a box, estimate the weight of the stuff you plan to put in it, then make any packing rearrangements as needed.[7]
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Research source- While professional movers are typically better at handling heavy boxes, it’s still best not to go over about 30 lb (14 kg) per box.
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Fold or roll clothing, linens, and bedding to pack in designated boxes. You might end up packing much of your clothing and linens in suitcases or duffel bags, or just leaving them in their existing dresser drawers. Sort everything that’s going into moving boxes by type or function—bath towels, summer clothes, socks and underwear, etc.—and either fold or roll everything up. Nestle your stuff into the designated boxes without mashing or squashing it too much—especially if there are items you don’t want all wrinkled![8]
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Research source- To pack items on hangers in boxes, buy special wardrobe boxes that have built-in hanging rails. You can get these anywhere moving boxes are sold.
- While it’s tempting to use clothing and linens as padding material, it’s best to use functional padding like packing peanuts, bubble wrap, and crumpled packing paper instead.
- If you’re worried about your clothes and linens getting dirty or stained, line the insides of the boxes with packing paper, butcher paper, or craft paper.
- Put pillows in vacuum-sealing bags if you need to reduce the amount of space they take up.
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Put small and miscellaneous non-fragile stuff in clear zip-close bags. Instead of just tossing the contents of your desk drawer into a moving box, put your office supplies in labeled bags that you can then pack in the box. Do the same with cords, small tools, and other small items. It’s also okay to have a bag or two dedicated to small miscellaneous stuff that really doesn’t fit into any category.[9]
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Research source- Since you can see what’s in them, labeling the bags is optional. Doing so may help you remember what goes with what, though. For example, if you have screws and bolts for mounting your computer monitor, label the bag "monitor hardware."
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Wrap solid non-fragile items individually in paper. It may seem like overkill to wrap sturdy items individually, but it’s the best way to protect all of your stuff from breakage, scratches, tears, stains, or other damage. Wrap each item in one or more layers of packing paper, butcher paper, craft paper, tissue paper, or paper towels. Newspaper also works, but keep in mind that the ink can bleed onto clothing, books, or glass.[10]
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Line boxes for solid items with a single layer of packing peanuts. Skip this step for clothing, linens, and bedding. For solid but non-fragile stuff, add just enough packing peanuts to cover the bottom of the box. As an alternative to packing peanuts, crumple sheets of paper into balls and line the bottom.[12]
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Research source- Buy bags of packing peanuts or paper at an office supply store, post office, or hardware store.
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Put heavier stuff in first and fill in all the gaps as you go. Nestle the biggest and heaviest items intended for that box on top of the packing peanuts, then fit smaller items into any spaces between or around them. Don’t forcefully wedge anything into place, though—nestle things in where they fit. Fill remaining voids with handfuls of packing peanuts or crumpled paper as you go, until you’re about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the top. Add a layer of packing peanuts or crumpled paper to top off the box.[13]
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Secure the box top with packing tape to prevent it from spilling. Close the smaller flaps of the box top down, then close the larger flaps over them. Run a strip of packing tape over the seam between the closed flaps, making sure the strip runs down the sides of the box at least 3 in (7.6 cm)[15]
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Research source- Don’t use masking tape to seal the top of the box, and definitely not to seal the bottom! Duct tape is also a poor choice, despite its strength, because it doesn’t stick to cardboard as well as does packing tape.
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Label the box on 2 opposite sides after you fill it. Clearly write what the box contains and which room it will go to in your new home. You can write directly on the box with a permanent marker, or use securely-adhered stickers if you want to reuse the box. Write your full name as well, especially if you’re using movers.[16]
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Research source- For example, you might write “books, living room” or "toys, Maddie's room."
- If the box contains random items, write "misc." or "miscellaneous." For example, "misc. kitchen supplies."
- Draw arrows pointing to the top of the box to indicate which side is up. This will ensure that the heavier objects stay on the bottom.
Boxing Up Fragile Objects
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Use smaller boxes and keep the weight well under 30 lb (14 kg). Smaller boxes are easier to handle and are less likely to be dropped and damaged. Keep the boxes lighter than you would a box of the same size with non-fragile items inside; instead of 30 lb (14 kg), reduce the packed weight to around 10 lb (4.5 kg) or less if possible.[17]
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Research source- When getting moving boxes, consider picking up a few specialty boxes for fragile items that have, for instance, cardboard separators inside them. That said, it’s definitely possible to safely pack fragile items in standard moving boxes.
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Line the bottom of the box with packing peanuts or tightly crumpled paper. Instead of adding a single layer of packing peanuts like you would with non-fragile items, make the layer in the bottom of the box at least 2 in (5.1 cm) deep. If you’re using paper instead of packing peanuts, crumple it tightly into balls to provide better protection for your stuff.[18]
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Research source- As another alternative, line the bottom of the box with multiple layers of bubble wrap until it’s at least 2 in (5.1 cm) thick.
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Wrap each fragile item in bubble wrap, packing paper, or its original box. If you have the box—with the interior padding—that the item came in, use it.[19]
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Research source Otherwise, bubble wrap is better for thin, delicate objects like plates, china, or lamps. Packing paper is better for slightly sturdier objects like picture frames or lamp shades. Wrap each item completely, taping down the edges securely so the wrapping doesn’t unravel.[20]
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Research source- For items that are hollow in the middle, like glasses, mugs, and vases, stuff a wad of crumpled paper inside.
- Do not use clothing or towels to wrap fragile items. These are not secure enough to prevent breakage.
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Pack flat items vertically and limit stacking in general. Don’t, for instance, stack individually-wrapped plates or picture frames in the box. Instead, slide them in vertically and use extra cushioning from packing peanuts or crumpled paper to keep them upright and secure. Items like mugs and glasses should be packed upside-down, but don’t stack them one right over the other. Rather, cut sheets of cardboard to make platforms upon which to set each layer of wrapped mugs or glasses, and fill in all gaps with packing material.[21]
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Research source- As with non-fragile packing, put heavier items in the box first. A heavier fragile object should never be pressing down directly on a lighter one.
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Fill all gaps and the top 2 in (5.1 cm) of the box with packing material. Use as much as packing material as you need to fill in all of the empty spaces. You do not want fragile items shifting around in the box. Leave at least 2 in (5.1 cm) at the top of the box to fill with packing peanuts, crumpled paper, or bubble wrap.[22]
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Research source- The box should be full but not bulging at the edges. Don't overstuff boxes with fragile items.
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Tape the completely-filled box with a strip of packing tape. Fold down the smaller flaps, then the larger flaps. Run a strip of tape over the seam between the flaps and at least 3 in (7.6 cm) down each side of the box.[23]
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Research source- If you’re not 100% sure you packed the items securely enough, try this test: pick up the box and very gently rock it back and forth like a sleeping baby. If you feel any movement inside the box, you haven’t used enough packing material inside!
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Write “fragile” on all 4 sides of the box. Use a broad, dark marker to write this in large letters. Include the contents of the box as well; for instance, “FRAGILE—plates” or “FRAGILE—sofa lamps.” Draw arrows onto the box to clearly indicate which side is up.[24]
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Research source- When packing the truck, make sure that heavier objects are not placed on top of this box.
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Declutter your home about 3 weeks before your move by getting rid of things you don’t need. Finalize your packing plan and start packing right after that so you have lots of time to get the job done. Aim to finish packing the night before moving day.[25]
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Cover liquid containers (like shampoo or detergent bottles) in bubble or plastic wrap instead of paper, then seal them in zip-close bags.[26]
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Consider putting Styrofoam plates in between breakable dishware for added padding.
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If you fill a large box with heavy items, it will be too hard to move and may break apart. Put objects like books, computer parts, or tools in smaller boxes to help move them more efficiently. Large boxes are good for light items like blankets, clothing, or stuffed animals.[27]
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Don’t pack furniture and major appliances. These should be wrapped in padded moving blankets. You can get these from a package store or a hardware store. If you hired a mover, they may do this for you.[28]
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- Boxes
- Packing peanuts
- Packing paper
- Bubble wrap
- Packing tape
- Masking tape
- Permanent marker
Certified Professional Organizer & Senior Move Manager
This article was co-authored by Marty Stevens-Heebner, SMM-C, CPO® and by wikiHow staff writer, Christopher M. Osborne, PhD. Marty Stevens-Heebner is a Certified Professional Organizer (CPO) and Founder of Clear Home Solutions, a home organizing and senior moving management company based in Southern California. Marty is the President of the National Association of Senior and Specialty Move Managers (NASMM), with certifications in Senior and Specialty Move Management, Professional Organizing, and Aging in Place. Clear Home Solutions was the first nationally accredited firm in Los Angeles and Ventura Counties. Marty is the first Certified Senior Move Manager (SMM-C) in the United States and has been acknowledged as a Hoarding Specialist and ADHD Specialist through the Institute for Challenging Disorganization. Marty also hosts How to Move Your Mom (and still be on speaking terms afterward), a podcast dedicated to later life and all its idiosyncrasies. She received her B.A. in History from Cornell University and an MFA from the University of California, Los Angeles. This article has been viewed 49,169 times.
Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 49,169 times.
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Aaron Makashiya
Aug 6, 2019
"I am rendering furniture removal services myself, so this article helped me a lot to know what is needed when moving how to pack stuff. Thank you."..." more
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